Diese "Heinkel-Tuninganleitung" von 1959 , weiss jemand mehr über das Papier?
Stammt das wirklich direkt von Heinkel oder ist das ganze ein "Fake" wie man auf neudeutsch sagen würde?
Vor auch allem der sagenhafte Geschwindigkeitszuwachs scheint nicht im Verhältnis zum Aufwand zu stehen?!
"Offizielle" Heinkel-Tuninganleitung von 1959 ?!
-
Gundolf 5530
- Beiträge: 630
- Registriert: 15.12.2005, 17:00
- Wohnort: Rodenbek bei Kiel
Re: "Offizielle" Heinkel-Tuninganleitung von 1959
Elmar, du glaubst doch nicht, dass dir ein Fake schickeElmar hat geschrieben:Diese "Heinkel-Tuninganleitung" von 1959 , weiss jemand mehr über das Papier?
Stammt das wirklich direkt von Heinkel oder ist das ganze ein "Fake" wie man auf neudeutsch sagen würde?
Vor auch allem der sagenhafte Geschwindigkeitszuwachs scheint nicht im Verhältnis zum Aufwand zu stehen?!
archiv erasmo steht für orschinaaal
Es ist von der Kundendienst-Abteilung in Zuffenhausen erstellt worden. Es war für die sportlich Interessierten gedacht. Bei den drei Werks-Sportrollern war natürlich deutlich mehr gemacht.
Ciao
erasmo
Hi.
Sorry, but I can only write in English
I also downloaded that paper but i can't understand it
If someone could help....
On this post it is also said that more things were done With the three work sport scooters....
If one could know what!
Another carburetor?
A 200cc. Cilinder and piston?
A different Exaust?
Greetings from Portugal
Rui Tavares
Sorry, but I can only write in English
I also downloaded that paper but i can't understand it
If someone could help....
On this post it is also said that more things were done With the three work sport scooters....
If one could know what!
Another carburetor?
A 200cc. Cilinder and piston?
A different Exaust?
Greetings from Portugal
Rui Tavares
Greetings from Portugal
Rui Tavares
Rolls (Heinkel) Roller
-
Gleiter2
Hi there Rui,
you`ve read the "Tuninganleitung". This means "Tuning-manual".
There was some wondering and argueing about the genuinity of the "pamphlet", but it is a true Stuttgard print of the time.
It leads to an increase of power of one half HP and a speed increase of two km/h.
Required Methods:
1. Exhaust without mufflers, following drawing No. .....
2. Polishing and enlargement of the inlet-tube to 23 mm, removing all
edges !
3. Reworking of valve-ports, removing all edges !
4. Carb with a 22-mm-diameter combined with the enlarged inlet-tube
5. Progressive valvesprings according to given specification
6. Shortening of the cylinder about 0,5 mm, use of high-octane fuel (in
terms of the time !)
For higher average speed use the sidecar chainwheels and analogue gear ratio.
Not all measures work, much testing is to be done to find right setup.
Apparantly, much more was done on the "Werks"-scooters set up in Zuffenhausen. What, I do not know.
Any questions left - ask !
Regards
stefan
you`ve read the "Tuninganleitung". This means "Tuning-manual".
There was some wondering and argueing about the genuinity of the "pamphlet", but it is a true Stuttgard print of the time.
It leads to an increase of power of one half HP and a speed increase of two km/h.
Required Methods:
1. Exhaust without mufflers, following drawing No. .....
2. Polishing and enlargement of the inlet-tube to 23 mm, removing all
edges !
3. Reworking of valve-ports, removing all edges !
4. Carb with a 22-mm-diameter combined with the enlarged inlet-tube
5. Progressive valvesprings according to given specification
6. Shortening of the cylinder about 0,5 mm, use of high-octane fuel (in
terms of the time !)
For higher average speed use the sidecar chainwheels and analogue gear ratio.
Not all measures work, much testing is to be done to find right setup.
Apparantly, much more was done on the "Werks"-scooters set up in Zuffenhausen. What, I do not know.
Any questions left - ask !
Regards
stefan
Zuletzt geändert von Gleiter2 am 17.08.2007, 21:57, insgesamt 1-mal geändert.
-
Gleiter2
And again - hi Rui !
Read your new "Leans to the right"-answer - glad you found out what happened. Too bad it will be some work... .
About the 200-cc-tuning: should you be seriously interested, I will be glad to put you into contact with people that know - and run ! - that "Heinkel-Kabine"-displacement.
It is not without (temperature related) problems, but there are more 200-cc-Heinkel than I thought - especially with a sidecar !
Horst Glaser (http://www.motoglaser.de) is THE man to talk to concerning 200cc and tuning - I do not know wether this is possible in English, but I would guess so.... .
But there are other people that know loads of stuff. Try to put up some simple questions that can be answered by more drivers. Or send me some questions per "pn" (look for button) to translate and post!
Byebye
stefan
Read your new "Leans to the right"-answer - glad you found out what happened. Too bad it will be some work... .
About the 200-cc-tuning: should you be seriously interested, I will be glad to put you into contact with people that know - and run ! - that "Heinkel-Kabine"-displacement.
It is not without (temperature related) problems, but there are more 200-cc-Heinkel than I thought - especially with a sidecar !
Horst Glaser (http://www.motoglaser.de) is THE man to talk to concerning 200cc and tuning - I do not know wether this is possible in English, but I would guess so.... .
But there are other people that know loads of stuff. Try to put up some simple questions that can be answered by more drivers. Or send me some questions per "pn" (look for button) to translate and post!
Byebye
stefan
-
Gleiter2
...and - I forgot - the gearchange-problem.
There were/are some tricks to improve gearchange on the scooter.
Two that I know of:
ONE: the "Schalthilfe" sold by the club for about 40 €.
A, as I find, rather obscure, "gearchange-help", confined in a small tin box.
Dismanteled, it consists of some rods, carved and put together in a fashion that helps to define the engagement of the cogs on the outside by keeping the cables on spot. It is put between the cables and the gearchange-lever on the outside of the engine.
Not too many satisfied customers as I found out over two years.
TWO: much better, quiet a lot of work and thus not too cheap to have done - rework of the gearbox axles and shafts as well as the engine/gearbox housing.
Only fully functional when "Schaltgabeln" (gearbox forks ??) are reworked, i.e. re-grided or "hinterschliffen" (derived from hinter=behind and schleifen=grind).
Please search http://www.hainkel.de and http://www.heinkel-ei.de (tipps/Schaltraste) for details of the latter.
Both sites were made by people that know their craft, as you will see.
The intend is to re-create part of the gearbox-features that preceeded the 103 A-1 - and A-2 - settings.
The earlier types did not have the driving comfort, but had a very different setup with cables AND levers AND the worked-on axles and shafts AND slightly different engine housing.
This was made impossible when the engine was rubber-mounted (sic !)
Thus few people get "early-type", i.e. "pre-103-A-1"- engines or engine housings and gear box contents that, combined with the later cable-setup, will still improve changing of gears - or finding and keeping in "second".... .
It seems to be necessary to keep the entire gearchange-mechanism as gap/play-free and smooth-running as possible in every way.
Reconsider teflon-lined cables, tune everything very carefully, check cables - I have not only read about fawlty inners but experienced one that I did not notice at first. EVERYTHING has to be flawless, but still everybody knows what you are talking about when mentioning gearchange difficulty....
Questions ?
Bye !
stefan
Hey: the cooling aids are cool (...!...). I never thought they really do something !!!
There were/are some tricks to improve gearchange on the scooter.
Two that I know of:
ONE: the "Schalthilfe" sold by the club for about 40 €.
A, as I find, rather obscure, "gearchange-help", confined in a small tin box.
Dismanteled, it consists of some rods, carved and put together in a fashion that helps to define the engagement of the cogs on the outside by keeping the cables on spot. It is put between the cables and the gearchange-lever on the outside of the engine.
Not too many satisfied customers as I found out over two years.
TWO: much better, quiet a lot of work and thus not too cheap to have done - rework of the gearbox axles and shafts as well as the engine/gearbox housing.
Only fully functional when "Schaltgabeln" (gearbox forks ??) are reworked, i.e. re-grided or "hinterschliffen" (derived from hinter=behind and schleifen=grind).
Please search http://www.hainkel.de and http://www.heinkel-ei.de (tipps/Schaltraste) for details of the latter.
Both sites were made by people that know their craft, as you will see.
The intend is to re-create part of the gearbox-features that preceeded the 103 A-1 - and A-2 - settings.
The earlier types did not have the driving comfort, but had a very different setup with cables AND levers AND the worked-on axles and shafts AND slightly different engine housing.
This was made impossible when the engine was rubber-mounted (sic !)
Thus few people get "early-type", i.e. "pre-103-A-1"- engines or engine housings and gear box contents that, combined with the later cable-setup, will still improve changing of gears - or finding and keeping in "second".... .
It seems to be necessary to keep the entire gearchange-mechanism as gap/play-free and smooth-running as possible in every way.
Reconsider teflon-lined cables, tune everything very carefully, check cables - I have not only read about fawlty inners but experienced one that I did not notice at first. EVERYTHING has to be flawless, but still everybody knows what you are talking about when mentioning gearchange difficulty....
Questions ?
Bye !
stefan
Hey: the cooling aids are cool (...!...). I never thought they really do something !!!
Zuletzt geändert von Gleiter2 am 18.08.2007, 18:37, insgesamt 1-mal geändert.
-
Gleiter2
Hier noch der passende Bilder Link zum "gearchange problem"
http://www.hainkel.de/gallery/index.php ... haltraste/
http://www.hainkel.de/gallery/index.php ... haltraste/
